| Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B. | | | | its margaritas and mojitos, served as in the case with |
| | | | | all other beverages, in classic Mexican blue accented |
| It took a reduction in Oaxaca’s tourism and an | | | | thick hand-blown glassware (vidrio soplado). The |
| increase in staff to bring La Biznaga back into my | | | | mezcals are also noteworthy for the selections |
| good books. While we never actually stopped | | | | offered. Pretty well all of the bar servings are |
| patronizing the trendy, relaxed eatery in downtown | | | | healthy, and prices across the board are competitive, |
| Oaxaca, the painstakingly slow service coupled with a | | | | mezcals beginning at, get this, 15 pesos. |
| sometimes snooty attitude of the wait staff was | | | | |
| enough to cause us to caution both our house guests | | | | But we’re here for dinner. La Silvestre is a |
| and fellow residents. But word does get around, | | | | mushroom soup, more in the nature of a light broth |
| and that, combined with the reality check caused by | | | | devoid of dairy, containing a selection of wild hongos |
| the social and political unrest in the latter half of 2006 | | | | including setas, along with bacon, onion and chile |
| resulting in empty downtown streets (all now long | | | | poblano … a must for toadstool enthusiasts. |
| gone) must have caused management to take a | | | | Rarely does a visit go by when I won’t indulge. |
| step back, re-evaluate, and act. And it’s | | | | |
| worked. | | | | Las Calendas is a starter worthy of selection. While |
| | | | | described as tamales, there is no corn, but rather |
| The complacent attitude has disappeared. Once | | | | squash blossom and melted string cheese (quesillo) |
| again waiters have smiles on their faces and interact | | | | enveloped with tender hierba santa leaf, an herb with |
| with clientele with helpful suggestions, even when | | | | a distinct taste used in preparation of many Oaxacan |
| serving new faces. The staff complement has | | | | dishes yet not often enough as a single flavor |
| significantly increased, and now even includes a | | | | source. You’re apt to recall, “so that’s |
| school-aged busboy-esque youngster. | | | | the exquisite essence I’ve been enjoying all this |
| | | | | trip.” The triptych is presented with sides of |
| Drinks and complimentary seasoned carrot sticks | | | | refried beans and diced spiced tomato, and topped |
| arrive promptly, orders are taken when you’re | | | | with a drizzle of cream. Another worthy triumvirate |
| ready to proceed, with appetizers and main courses | | | | is the Cerro Viejo, crunchy fried tortilla horns stuffed |
| arriving without table discussion about how much | | | | with seasoned sautéed hibiscus (jamaica) flower, |
| longer to wait before just picking up and leaving. | | | | presented with a center of guacamole crowned with |
| | | | | chipotle peppers. It would be a mistake to not |
| And so a testimony to the always consistent quality | | | | share each of these two tasters. |
| and presentation of fare, and welcoming ambience, | | | | |
| La Biznaga has managed to maintain a following of | | | | The grilled salmon is served over a bed of cilantro |
| residents and tourists alike in the face of its earlier | | | | pesto, with lightly dressed side salad comprised of |
| seemingly deliberate shortcomings. | | | | select lettuce, tomato and pineapple wedges which, |
| | | | | together with pine nuts in the entrée provide |
| The atmosphere is open courtyard, with a | | | | complimentary crunches. The tuna, similar to the |
| fashionable retractable roof protecting from | | | | salmon in terms of a good sized serving prepared to |
| mid-day sun and seasonal rains; tables and chairs | | | | the exact degree of doneness as demanded, arrives |
| are wood, á la simplicity of arts-and-crafts vogue, | | | | on a sea of avocado salsa and is topped with pico de |
| comfort enhanced by wicker seats and backs; a | | | | gallo, a flavorful traditional combination of tomato, |
| selection of palms willows off to one side, with tall | | | | radish, cucumber, onion, chile and cilantro, with an |
| leafy tree mid-court; the bar by design provides a | | | | added tang of lime. Finally, my own entrée on |
| focal point given that its selections are contained on | | | | this outing consists of four filets of chicken breast |
| an overhead blackboard; and a rotating selection of | | | | each wrapped around a piece of cooked plantain with |
| gallery art graces the walls. Music is most often | | | | just enough walnut crumbles to be detected and |
| jazz, but eclectically ranges off to other similar | | | | welcomed, presented on a platter of puréed |
| genres, thereby maintaining an air of coolness in the | | | | guava set off with swirls of cream. |
| beatnik sense of the term. | | | | |
| | | | | The distinctive flavors one has just experienced |
| Enormous chalkboards, one at either end of the | | | | almost call out for further indulgence, and thus |
| restaurant, contain the menu selections, print | | | | dessert is difficult to neglect: on this evening |
| somewhat cryptic … interesting to say the least. | | | | healthy scoops of pistachio sorbet (nieve) are served |
| Be sure to bring your glasses, or strain your eyes | | | | in a margarita schooner, and chocolate truffle-cake |
| over the tables of others, or simply get up and walk | | | | (trufa) floats on a strawberry coulis. |
| closer to the cartes du jour and you’ll be fine. | | | | |
| On the other hand, our experience over the past | | | | It’s indeed a rarity for a restaurant to exhibit |
| three years has been that one cannot go too far | | | | this level of consistency in quality of cuisine. Now if |
| wrong choosing blindly. Appetizers, soups and salads | | | | La Biznaga can only maintain a degree of humility |
| range from about 35 - 100 pesos, and entrées | | | | translating into value-added service, there’s no |
| (meat, fish or fowl) come in at 65 to 200. | | | | stopping its continued success, nor reason for |
| | | | | patrons to ever again hesitate stopping by. |
| La Biznaga is known for its cocktails, and in particular | | | | |