| The ambience is spacious and comfortable, and most | | | | bottle, but rather freshly prepared, with anchovies |
| importantly with décor unique to Oaxacan | | | | and all, in the kitchen ... not the regular kitchen, but |
| eateries ... the old Mexico of the 20's, 30's and 40's. | | | | the "secret kitchen" in a separate building where Don |
| The consistency of theme begins with reception: | | | | Fernando personally prepares certain mixtures and |
| vintage iron sewing machine bases with thick | | | | salsas so as to assure that his recipes do not find |
| rosewood-stained table tops, and artwork of the | | | | their way into competing eateries. Even the croutons |
| epoch adorning the walls. | | | | are baked on site. The chicken liver paté was |
| The restaurant is furnished with antique-style pine | | | | the best I've tasted outside of my grandmother's |
| tables, chairs and servers. An absolutely magnificent | | | | haimishe home. The oysters were to die for, |
| antique bar complemented by period posters of | | | | prepared au gratín with manchego cheese in |
| liquors and mixed drinks is set off to one side. An | | | | a moderately spiced cilantro salsa. If you are |
| iron treble clef titivates another wall, with old brass | | | | disposed to ordering this plate, consider the larger |
| instruments appearing to hang from a page of sheet | | | | size so others in your party can appreciate it ... they |
| music striking a pleasant chord. The baby grand is | | | | won't let you keep it to yourself. |
| without pianist this evening, but playing nevertheless. | | | | Two of Chory´s "Signature Dishes" which we |
| A long glass showcase with three shelves upon which | | | | tried were "Chory's Steak Select" and the smoked |
| are displayed vintage kitchen, dining and imbibing | | | | shrimp. The latter consists of 5 oversized jumbo |
| gadgets, and green glass pieces from the depression | | | | crustaceans smoked on the premises and served |
| era, cries out for attention: if you didn't know what | | | | with a chipotle dipping sauce and garnishes. They |
| this restaurant was all about before, just take a look | | | | were cooked to perfection. The "carne negra" is |
| now. Of course Chory is always there to explain. | | | | beef tenderloin marinated in another secret salsa, |
| When Fernando Gonzalez was a child growing up in | | | | comprising one or more of the multitude of local |
| Oaxaca, they used to call him Shorty, which naturally, | | | | chilies, and other herbs and spices, then flame grilled |
| translated into Spanish became Chory. It's taken Don | | | | --- unique and delectable to the extreme. Our final |
| Fernando some fifty plus years to turn what must | | | | entrée was barbecued pork ribs, perhaps not |
| have then been an embarrassing stature for him, into | | | | unusual to the American palate, but in the case of |
| something of which he can now be proud, Chory's | | | | southern Mexico, something not commonly |
| Bistro. He certainly has the pedigree to make this | | | | encountered. Thankfully the ribs were more than |
| most recent entry into the Oaxacan restaurant | | | | expected in that they were not fall-off-the-bone, |
| lottery a success, with over thirty years in the hotel | | | | signifying no over-boiling (if they've in fact touched |
| and restaurant business and training in the United | | | | water at all), and the Texas-style BBQ sauce was |
| States. | | | | tangy and rich. |
| Piping hot from the on-site bread and pastry ovens | | | | Rather than selections from the antique pastry cart |
| to the table, a round loaf of bread arrives almost | | | | which was rolled out to our table, we opted for |
| immediately upon being seated, accompanied by a | | | | Singapore style plantains prepared with |
| dish of roasted garlic with fresh rosemary and | | | | Kahlúa, and Oaxacan lime pie, both of which |
| drenched in olive oil for spreading. The selection of | | | | were up to par and did the trick. |
| blended scotches and other liquors is sufficiently | | | | I recommend all of the "Signature Dishes" as well as |
| broad for both Oaxacans and travelers alike, the | | | | the foregoing plates found without the special |
| wine list is short but covers all bases for matching | | | | designation. Over the past dozen years of friendship |
| menu selections, and the mixed drinks reassure that | | | | with Chory and his family, my wife and I have tried |
| the bar is there to serve. | | | | them all. |
| The menu is shorter than most, but the selections | | | | Chory's Bistro |
| seem to be just that, carefully chosen items | | | | Flores Napolitas No. 301 |
| developed by Don Fernando over the years. We | | | | San Felipe del Agua, Oaxaca |
| began with appetizers of Caesar salad, baked | | | | (951) 133-6136 |
| oysters and paté, each of which is unique to | | | | Tues - Sun, 2 - 10 |
| Oaxaca, even though the salad appears on several | | | | Entrées from 60 to 200 pesos |
| menus. In this case the dressing was not from a | | | | Private dining room for 12 available. |